The release of an iconic new vintage from an iconic wine is always exciting. And when it is one of Australia’s greatest wines from one of the finest vintages in recent times, the excitement is palpable.
In May, the Henschke family will release the latest vintages of its Hill of Grace from the 2021 vintage. I had a hunch it would be good, but I didn’t realise just how good.
Over many years of writing about wine, I have been fortunate to have tasted all but a handful of Hill of Grace vintages; I think the 2021 is among the best yet.
Fifth-generation winemaker Stephen Henschke agrees this is one of the greats.
“The 2021 vintage will be considered a standout of the decade, remembered for complex wines with exceptional varietal expression, balance and purity, that speak of the ancient land from which they originate,” Mr Henschke said.
There is a striking likeness to other excellent vintages, such as the wonderful 1986 and those of 2002, 2005, and 2015, which were similarly mild seasons.
Hill of Grace wines stand alongside some of the world’s great single-vineyard releases. Since the first vintage in 1958, it has come to be recognised as an icon among Australian and global wines, with a reputation and price that is closest to Penfolds.
The fundamental difference is that Hill of Grace is from a single vineyard and Grange is a blend of vineyards and regions.
The Henschke vineyard, which is just four hectares in size, was among the first planted in the region in 1860, and with fastidious care from generations of family members, continues to produce fruit of extraordinary depth, concentration and expression.
As a single-vineyard wine, the release is limited by the quality of the vintage, and this year the decision was made to jump the tiny 2020 vintage (due for release) to the 2021. The ’20 will be held in museum stock for later release as a museum wine.
Along with the Hill of Grace, Henschke has released four other single vineyard wines from the ’21 vintage: the Hill of Roses shiraz, Mount Edelstone shiraz, The Wheelwright shiraz and Cyril Henschke cabernet sauvignon.
The Hill of Roses is arguably the best yet released from this special vineyard. Cuttings were taken from a mass selection of these Hill of Grace ‘grandfather vines’ by Prue Henschke in 1989 and were planted as a one-hectare nursery block, which now feeds the Hill of Roses shiraz.
Each of the other releases has an important history. The 16ha Mount Edelstone vineyard was planted in 1912, the Wheelwright vineyard in 1968 and the Cyril Henschke in 1988.
Of course, all vineyards are now managed by Prue Henschke, who has brought a combination of organic and biodynamic practices to build soil health and ultimately improve the consistency and quality of the wines.
Henschke Hill of Grace Single Vineyard Shiraz 2021 ($1,000)
Having tasted most of the Hill of Grace releases over the years, I reckon this will go down as one of the greatest. I don’t think I have seen such a combination of poise and elegant refinement without compromising on the deep fruit concentration and power that is part of the vineyard DNA. The fruit comes from pre-phylloxera vines planted in the mid-1800s. Savoury meaty aromas with a distinctive vineyard sage bush dried herb and black olive character, the oak and fruit combination is seamless and harmonious. Layers of dark chocolate, black fruits and chalky minerals bring further detail into a wonderful wine.
Score 99/100
Cellar: 40 years
Henschke Cyril Henschke Single Vineyard cabernet sauvignon 2021 ($195)
This comes from the Cyril Henschke vineyards and is 99 per cent cabernet with the tiny remainder merlot. Once again, it gets just 8 per cent new French oak. I’ve tasted some good examples of this wine over many years but none better than this one. Highly perfumed floral red currant notes with a little African violet for exotic lift. The palate is silky smooth with fine chalky tannins and really understated integrated oak fitting snuggly into the equation. There’s a juicy character here that provides an approachable palate even at this formative stage in its journey.
Score 98/100
Cellar: 30 years
Henschke The Wheelwright Eden Valley shiraz 2021 ($160)
This vineyard was planted by Cyril Henschke in 1968 in the Mount Lofty Ranges as Henschke marked its first 100 years. It was a wise decision of great foresight. This is a thrilling wine that is as good as I have tasted under this label, which was first released from the 2015 vintage. Elegant and highly perfumed with bright red fruits, spice and subtle sage bush complexity. A little lavender nuance adds further depth. The palate is silky smooth and medium bodied with tremendous length and poise. Just 10 per cent new oak with the remainder largely French and a smidgeon on American.
Score 97/100
Cellar: 30 years
• Ray Jordan is one of Australia’s most experienced and respected wine journalists, contributing to newspapers and magazines over more than 40 years. In 2017 he co-authored The Way it Was: The History of the early years of the Margaret River Wine Region
